This is not one of those towering soufflés that collapses as you take it to the table – more a fluffed version of a family favourite. You can also add a little chopped ham or – trust me on this – tiny cubes of Spam.

For this recipe, I use a soufflé dish 16 cm/6. inches in diameter and 7 cm/2 inches high. I also have a straight-sided oval baking dish of the same capacity, measuring about 24 x 16 cm/9 x 6 inches, and 5 cm/2 inches high, which serves just as well.

If I can get hold of fresh tomatoes grown in proper sunshine, I like to serve them as an uncomplicated salad alongside.

50 g butter 3 tbsp panko crumbs or fresh breadcrumbs 100 g dried macaroni 1 tsp Dijon mustard a small handful of fresh chives, snipped 2 tbsp grated Parmesan 170-gcan evaporated milk, or 200 ml milk 25 g flour ½ tsp dry mustard powder a splash of Tabasco, plus extra to serve a little freshly grated nutmeg 2 eggs, any size, separated 100 g grated Cheddar or Double Gloucester

1. Grease your dish (see intro) with ¼ of the butter and sprinkle thickly with 2 tablespoons of the panko crumbs. Stand the dish on a small rimmed baking tray or sheet, to make it easier to move about.

2. Bring a pan of well-salted water to a rolling boil. Calculate the pasta cooking time by checking the timing on the pack (in micro-print) and adding ½ again. Put the pasta in the water, bring back to the boil, clap on the lid and turn off the heat. Set the timer. (After a couple of minutes, give the pasta a stir to stop it sticking together, then put the lid back on.) When the time is up, check the pasta is cooked, drain (not too thoroughly), then return to the pan. Stir in the Dijon and another ¼ of the butter to coat the pasta, then fold in the chives and Parmesan.

3. Meanwhile, make a white sauce. If using evaporated milk, make up to 200 ml with milk or water. Put into a small saucepan with the remaining 25 g butter and flour and bring to a simmer, whisking constantly as it becomes thick and smooth – the whole operation takes less than 2 minutes. Transfer to a large bowl. Stir in the dry mustard, Tabasco, nutmeg and plenty of seasoning. Stir the egg yolks lightly into the sauce, followed by most of the cheese, then fold in the macaroni mixture.

4. Whisk the egg whites with a pinch of salt to soft peaks, then fold lightly into the macaroni mixture. Gently turn the mixture into the prepared dish and sprinkle with remaining cheese and panko crumbs. Bake at 160°C fan/180°C/350°F for 30–35 minutes, until firm, golden and crunchy on top.

Serve sprinkled with Tabasco, if you wish. If you don’t finish the soufflé all at once, put it back in the oven, ready for second helpings.

Credit: Two’s Company by Orlando Murrin (Ryland Peters & Small, £18.99) Photography by Clare Winfield © Ryland Peters & Small