Questions you’ve been too chicken to ask

Our Vet Nurse, Gaynor Davies, has the answers to some of your most pressing hen-related questions

Q. I currently have a hen on antibiotics dispensed in water however, she won't drink so the vet advised to use a pipette. Please can you advise the best way to open her beak and administer the drops?

Gaynor says... Some antibiotics taste bitter and I have found it helpful to add a small amount of fruit juice or Ribena to the water to make it more palatable. If that still doesn’t encourage your hen to drink, sit down with her on your lap wrapping her gently in a towel if she struggles, and tuck her in under your left arm against your body. If you are right-handed use your left hand to keep her head still and a finger from your right hand on the tip of the lower beak. Firmly but gently pull down her lower beak and keep her beak open by using a plastic pen or end of a spoon across the join of her upper and lower beak. Trickle the medicine in a few drops at a time allowing her to recover between sessions and get her breath back.

Q. With the cold and wet weather coming in, the mud around my hen house is turning to soup, what’s the best thing to put down in the run?

Gaynor says... This is a common problem given our high levels of rainfall. Use a shovel to remove as much of the loose soupy mud, you will find the ground is likely to be fairly hard underneath. A layer of sand will improve drainage as will bark chippings or gravel. Use a paving slab to stand your feeder on and slabs or mud control mats around the entrance to the house and/or pop holes if you have space. If you have a walk-in run place a slab inside the gate to give you a safe step in and out. You can purchase a hen-safe sanitiser from our shop at shop.bhwt.org.uk.

Q. Are ex-commercial hens friendly pets, they always look so friendly on social media?

Gaynor says... It can take a few days for ex-commercial hens to settle and initially they may be a little wary of normal day-to-day sounds like dogs barking, planes flying overhead etc. However, it doesn’t take long for them to flourish and grow in confidence at which point they become cheeky, endearing and a joy to live with; basically cats and dogs with feathers. I find it helpful to have a radio playing nearby when they first arrive to get them used to human voices.

Incidentally the natural behaviours all hens exhibit kick in immediately and it is not unusual for us to witness ex-bats sunbathing in the crates sometimes waiting to be lifted out.

Q. Should you wear a mask or protective clothing when doing a quick daily clean of the hen house?

Gaynor says... It isn’t necessary to get suited and booted for a daily clean under normal circumstances. A pair of Marigold gloves is generally all you need unless you are asthmatic or have underlying health issues. However, your monthly deep clean is another matter and if you are using disinfectants or treating for red mite, we advise you pop on a face mask. If you have more than one coop, are isolating sick birds or quarantining new arrivals a change of footwear or boot dip is recommended for use between different groups of birds. In times of high risk such as Avian Influenza it is good practice to have a boot dip in daily use and it is easy to make one at home using a plastic storage box.

Q. My girls perch at night outside, inside a secure run, but what temperature should I be putting them inside their coop at night or will they just go in the coop themselves when it gets too cold for them outside?

Gaynor says... It is not uncommon for new hens to perch outside as they have never had to make the decision to go to bed themselves, someone else has always put the lights out for them. In Autumn, when it is not warm but not bitterly cold, they may persevere with their outside sleepover. Start putting them inside at night when you put your own heating on and they will get into the habit quickly of snuggling up at night.